by Michael Disher
Click factory photos for larger versions
I met Martin Braun for the first
time at Basel 2001, and I was instantly impressed. Martin’s Eos with
sunrise-sunset complication is a great looking watch that generated lots of buzz at the Fair, and it was clear to me this was a
man with a future. I wrote about that visit in an article titled The
Sun Rises on Martin Braun.
Fast forward one year - Basel
2002, and of course I had to look in on Martin. What a difference a year
makes. In ’01, Martin had no USA representation, no CD with digital
images, and the Eos was still on the drawing board. Now, deliveries of
the Eos have commenced, ads for Martin’s watches appear in major watch
magazines, I was able to bring home a CD (and take a few images of my
own), and best of all, Martin is introducing four new models.
When I sat down in Martin’s booth, he told me with pride “My
collection is complete.” Let's take a look at what's new for 2002.
The case measures 39 mm in diameter without the
crown. The movement is an ETA 2824, known for its ruggedness. The
movement sports Geneva stripes and blued screws, and Martin’s name and
logo are engraved on the rotor. Available
with black dial in stainless steel on strap, as shown.
The USA retail
price will be $1575, and this watch will be available in June.
The La Sonnerie, pictured below,
is Martin’s new alarm watch, and it is a stunner. This is a Limited
Edition, and only 100 pieces will be produced. The case measures 42 mm
in diameter, and the dial is delicately guilloched with a wave design.
The movement is based on an A.
Schild caliber 1478, a manual winder that has not been produced since
the 1970s. Martin was not happy with the alarm sound the original
movement produced, so he devised a sound-spring from solid bronze for
the alarm hammer. This improves the alarm’s tone.
Martin also modifies the
movement’s finish. Originally nickel plated, Martin will finish 50
movements with Geneva stripes and 50 with perlage. All movements will have a screwed balance, and Incabloc shock
protection. The hands are of the highest quality, with beautiful bluing,
and the alarm hand has a red tip, assuring easy legibility. The La
Sonnerie will be produced in steel and offered on a Louisiana crocodile
strap with a silver dial. The USA retail
price will be $5000, and this watch will be available in mid June,
Martin’s most important new
watch at Basel this year is an enhanced version of the Eos. The Eos name
comes from the Greek goddess of the dawn - fitting for a sunrise-sunset
watch. In Greek mythology, Eos had a son named Boreas, and Martin has
chosen this name for his new Eos offspring.
Shown below, the Boreas adds an
Equation of Time complication to the Eos sunrise-sunset complication.
This complication was designed in-house. The EOT display is elegantly
incorporated, with a small center-mounted subsidiary hand moving across
a scale just below the date. The EOT scale’s curve harmonizes well
with those for the sunrise and sunset, and the EOT’s blued hand
matches the other perfectly. The EOT complication balances
the sunrise-sunset mechanicals located on the lower half of the dial. On the
whole, I feel the new complication improves the Eos’ overall visual
The Boreas is available in 39 or
42 mm diameters, with black or silver dial. On the black dial model, the
EOT and sunrise-sunset scales are anthracite in color. The
Boreas will be available in stainless steel or rose gold. USA prices
will be $10,000 in steel for either case size, $16,000 for a 39 mm rose
gold model, and $17,000 for a 42 mm rose gold model. Deliveries
should begin in January, 2003.
in Martin's booth, I spied a square watch of substantial proportions.
Martin informed me that it was an early prototype for a new model to be
released later this year, perhaps around September – a square Eos.
Early information indicates it will be available in steel or rose gold,
with prices in the neighborhood of $8000 for the steel version and
$15,000 for the gold. I do not have pictures, but if the finished product looks like the
prototype, it will be a striking watch.
more information about Martin Braun and his unique timepieces,
visit his website at www.martin-braun.com.
of the Boreas and La Sonnerie against wood backgrounds by Michael Disher.
All other images ©
Martin Braun, used with permission.
2002 TimeZone.com, All rights reserved